While the streets of Plaka (near the Acropolis) typically swarm with tourists, Athenians in the know head straight to Kolonaki, an area of swanky boutiques, galleries, and cool cafés. Museums worth visiting here include the Benaki, (www.benaki.gr), with its huge range of artworks, or the Museum of Cycladic Art (www.cycladic-m.gr), which houses a private collection of ancient Aegean artifacts. Spend the afternoon at Filion Café (34 Skoufa Street) drinking frappés (pronounced frah-PEHs) the way the locals do: slowly and over hot gossip. From Kolonaki make your way up to the city’s highest peak, Lykavittos Hill, where on a clear day you can see all the way to the Peloponnesus. For those who don’t have the stamina to make the climb, the funicular railway at the foot of the hill (on Ploutarchou Street) is a quick and easy alternative.
Jackie Onassis first brought A-list glamour to Mykonos in the 1960s, and the island remains a magnet for the international jet set. The Hora (or Old Town), a dazzling jumble of sugar-cube houses, turquoise shutters and clusters of bougainvillea, comes alive after dark. Enjoy a cocktail under the stars at Caprice Bar in the Little Venice section of Mykonos (22890 26083). The soundtrack varies from bongos and beats to classic ’80s anthems in this wacky boutique tavern by the sea. For prime people watching, move on to the Belvedere Hotel (www.belvederehotel.com) and sip saketinis at the Sunset Saké Bar and Lounge. The chilled sakes served in tall bamboo pitchers are potent but certainly get the party started.
Less than two square miles in size and virtually devoid of human life, this island has a charm part of which is that nothing much happens there. Lounge under a parasol at Italida beach or dip into the electric-blue waters of Pori Bay. Continue north to the island’s best kept secret: Gala, a small, pebbled beach at the mouth of a cave that is connected to the open sea via a narrow passage. Only strong swimmers should attempt to reach the open sea through the passage–and only when the tide is low. Gala means milk in Greek, and the beach gets its name from the frothy white waves that splash on the rocks. For optimum tanning, spread your towel on any one of the enormous boulders that surround Gala.
Born out of a massive volcanic eruption that obliterated an entire civilization some 3,500 years ago, Santorini was believed by Plato to be the lost city of Atlantis. Today Santorini is the top destination for most island hoppers. Backpackers and beer guzzlers camp in the capital, Fira, but for peace and solitude rent a villa in the northern town of Oia (www.santorini-villas.gr). For contemporary Mediterranean cooking and spectacular views book a balcony table at Ambrosia (www.santorini-gr.com/ambrosia.htm). Those looking for something more low-key should go the taverna route. Along the harbor in the tiny fishing village of Ammoudi, diners can handpick their octopus and bass at places like Dmitri’s and Katina’s.
