Eats: In a city jam-packed with steakhouses (known as parrillas) serving up tender grass-fed beef, Rio Alba (Tel: 54-11-4773-5748) is the best, hands down. The old-school waiters wear vests and bow ties and refuse to write down your order, but they always remember your name and favorite cut of meat (mine is the bife de chorizo, a punto, a New York Strip steak, medium-rare, accompanied by a nice Malbec red). I like this place so much I had my wedding rehearsal dinner here; 75 visiting Americans went home very happy that night.
Sleeps: Home Hotel (Tel: 54-11-4778-1008) has been praised by the world’s hippest travel publications for its undying coolness, and rightly so. It’s located in the happening Palermo Hollywood neighborhood, near lots of restaurants, bars and television studios. All the rooms are decorated in a minimalist vibe with wacky French wallpaper. The outdoor garden and infinity pool are perfect for lounging off the effects of a long BsAs night. Stop by on a Friday evening to sip stiff drinks with local scenesters and expats. The hotel’s owner, British music producer Tom Rixton, can usually be found behind the bar spinning tunes.
Drinks: Buenos Aires is currently undergoing a cocktail craze. Many Porteños are no longer content drinking straight beer or booze and are now demanding well-mixed libations for their nights out on the town. Mundo Bizarro (Tel: 54-11-4773-1967) in the chic neighborhood of Palermo Soho, has been leading the charge, with scores of original concoctions, like “the Sinner” (bourbon, peach schnapps, pastis and orange juice). The place is decorated in kitschy fluorescent colors, yet it feels like a biker bar—without the bikers. Nearby, Ocho7Ocho (Tel: 54-11-4773-1098) was once a hush-hush spot for a quiet cocktail amongst friends, but the secret’s out now. Regardless, it’s worth a visit for the speakeasy atmosphere. Across town, in the heady tango neighborhood of San Telmo, Club 647(Tel: 54-11-4331-3026) opens its doors to the city’s most fabulous people and offers Shanghai-inspired concoctions, like the eponymous “647” (sake, grapes, mirin and champagne). Dress to impress.
Sights: My favorite museum in the city is the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) (Tel: 54-11-4808-6500) which houses the impressive personal collection of local businessman Eduardo Costantini. It’s one of the largest collections of Latin American art in the world and includes works by Antonio Berni, Xul Solar, Tarsila do Amaral and Frida Kahlo. There are also rotating exhibits from international artists, such as Scotland’s Douglas Gordon (currently showing) and American photographer David LaChapelle. When LaChapelle arrived for the opening-night party at MALBA a few months ago, I watched him get mobbed by local fashionistas looking for a photo-op. Uber-cool, LaChapelle sipped slowly on a bottle of beer and grinned away.
Sports: Argentina is the undisputed world capital of polo. The best players and the best horses come from the surrounding pampas, where polo is played year-round. For a glimpse of the sport of kings at its absolute finest, head to the Palermo Polo Fields in the southern hemisphere spring for the Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo (Argentine Open Polo Championship), the most prestigious tournament on the planet (Nov. 17- Dec. 8). Look for Adolfo Cambiasso, the Roger Federer of polo, to lead his team, La Dolfina, to their third title in a row.
